Care Guide
First Day
Do not walk on the hydroseeded areas until the mulch has dried. When first applied our customized mix is a dark green color. As it dries it becomes a lighter green color. When dry you may walk on the hydroseed as necessary to begin watering.
Avoid wash outs – Divert all gutter downspouts away from seeded areas to prevent ugly wash outs.
IMPORTANT: Keep all people and pets off the hydroseeded areas as much as possible for the first month.
First Week
Watering – As you water your new lawn, pay close attention to make sure that all hydroseeded areas have adequate moisture. Areas with full sun exposure will dry out first and will need more moisture than shaded areas.
Fading Color – Over the course of the first week the bright green color of the mulch will start fading to a tan color. This is normal with our natural biodegradable colorant.
Stay Off The Grass – Remember to keep people and pets off the hydroseeded areas during the first four weeks as the seed starts germinating and taking root.
HINT: This would be a great time to make sure your mower is tuned up and has a sharp blade!
Second Week
Watering – Continue to keep the seed moist without overwatering. Once you begin to see growth it is essential to keep the new plants moist along with the rest of the seed that has not sprouted yet.
New Seedlings – During the second week you should start to see some growth but remember that even though you see growth there are still many more seeds that will continue to germinate in the coming weeks. If you don’t see any growth during the second week it could be due to weather conditions. The soil temperature needs to be at least 50º for seed to germinate.
Third Week
Your New Grass Will Tell You What’s Happening – If growing conditions are favorable your new lawn should look pretty even throughout the area that was hydroseeded. If you have bare spots that is typically because those areas are not getting enough water. If you notice your grass looks like it is thriving in the shadier areas and is thinner in the areas where there is direct sun, it is typically because you are losing more moisture in the sunny areas due to evaporation. To compensate for this, increase your watering frequency in the sunny or bare areas.
Fourth Week
By the end of the fourth week the majority of the seed should have germinated, and the germination period is now complete.
Watering – Now it is time to switch to a “Deep and Less Frequent” watering schedule to encourage your grass to grow deep roots. Your lawn needs at least 1”-1 ½” of water per week, either from rain or watering to soak the soil deeply. Water deeply only two or three times per week. Water your lawn between 4 a.m. and 10 a.m., whenever possible. Early morning watering reduces loss to wind and evaporation and allows water to soak in before sunlight heats the soil.
In hot weather if the grass looks stressed you may need to water deeply every day but ensure you do it only in the morning. Reduce or discontinue watering during wet and/or cool periods to avoid overwatering.
Hint: If you can’t push a 6” screwdriver into your lawn, you’re not watering enough.
Bring Out The Lawnmower – If the grass is approximately 3” tall in any area you are ready for your first mowing!
Watering Schedule
Weeks 1-3:
During the germination period, water twice-a-day when the temperatures are below 75º and three times a day when temperatures are above 75º. Avoid runoff and puddles, those indicate over watering and will create ugly washouts and bare spots.
Established Lawn:
The second phase of the watering program begins around Week 4 when the grass is about 3” tall. Reduce the frequency of watering to once every 2 or 3 days but longer deeper watering. Your lawn needs at least 1”-1 ½” of water per week, either from rain or watering to soak the soil deeply. Water deeply only two or three times per week. Water your lawn between 4 a.m. and 10 a.m., whenever possible. Early morning watering reduces loss to wind and evaporation and allows water to soak in before sunlight heats the soil.
In hot weather if the grass looks stressed you may need to water deeply every day but ensure you do it only in the morning. Reduce or discontinue watering during wet and/or cool periods to avoid overwatering.
Hint: If you can’t push a 6” screwdriver into your lawn, you’re not watering enough.
Tips To Get Your Lawn Started Right
#1 Watering During The Germination Period
It is not beneficial to water your germinating seed any earlier than 8:00AM. On most nights the ground forms dew that the seed will benefit from in the early mornings. The most important thing is to keep the seeds moist whenever there is sun exposure. On rainy or overcast days you may find that it is not necessary to water at all. As long as the seed is moist it is fine. If your seeds dry out for an extended period of time you can certainly expect a delay in germination adding days and even weeks to the progression. If you don’t provide adequate moisture it is easy to identify and will void our guarantees. Your seed will germinate more rapidly when kept damp in the warm sun causing a greenhouse effect. Finish watering 3 hours before dusk during hot humid weather.
#2 Irrigation Systems
Once all the seed has sprouted (Around Week 4) re-adjust the sprinkler schedule. Our custom blend of premium grasses is optimized for the Puget Sound area. A deep watering 2-3 times a week should be sufficient.
#3 Fertilizing
Before the end of Week 4 your lawn needs to be fertilized using a high nitrogen or “Turf Builder” type fertilizer. This is essential to maintain a dark green appearance and promote a thick lush lawn. If your lawn looks thin, or it doesn’t look ready to mow by week 4 and is turning yellow, this is a good indicator that your lawn needs nitrogen. We recommend using a premium grade slow-release fertilizer with nitrogen being the highest number on the bag.
If you use weed killer in your lawn care, DO NOT USE WEED KILLER, until at least the third mowing has been completed.
#4 Mowing
Mowing plays a vital role in controlling weeds. A new lawn should be mowed as soon as the blades are about 3” tall in any area. Delaying the first cutting encourages weed growth, and allows long grass blades to bend over, causing a shabby appearance. A healthy lawn should be mowed every week with a sharp mower blade. A dull mower blade will bruise and tear the leaves of the grass. Bruised or damaged grass invites lawn disease and results in unsightly brown spots. Mowing will also encourage new grass plants to thicken up your lawn faster.
How short should you cut the grass? Our custom blend includes perennial ryegrass which ideally should be cut to around three and a half inches. Just like the temperature, lawn height goes up in summer. With taller strands of grass to cover it, the lawn’s soil is shaded, which helps prevent pesky weeds like crabgrass and protects the lawn’s roots from the harsh heat.
If your grass is allowed to get too tall before you mow it, raise the mower blade enough to ensure you never cut off more than one-third of the grass blade during any one cutting. Mowing young grass too close can kill or weaken it. Progressively lower the mower each week to ensure you are cutting off no more than one-third of the blade until you reach the ideal height.